“It’s the same red,” one said. “No, it’s not,” the other insisted, squinting at a swatch under her phone torch. I asked what had changed. The rep sighed and motioned me closer, as if we were trading secrets in a library. “We took something out,” she said. “People asked for it.” The testers gleamed in their acrylic stand, identical except for a whisper of undertone that felt… different. Not worse. Just new. Somewhere between blue-cherry and brick. She tapped the box and smiled, the kind of smile that says both pride and a tiny ache. We’ve all had that moment where a beloved shade shifts by a hair and you can’t quite name why. The missing word sat on the ingredients list in plain sight.
The one red pigment cruelty-free brands are leaving behind
Walk through any beauty aisle and you’ll notice something subtle. The reds are still juicy, still powerfully red, yet a growing number of cruelty-free labels no longer mention carmine. That’s the pigment traditionally made by crushing cochineal insects, prized for its deep, blue-based scarlet and labelled as CI 75470 or E120. For decades it was lipstick’s secret weapon, the way to get that cinematic cherry without bleeding or dulling out. Many brands aren’t bragging about removing it. They’re just quietly reformulating and moving on. Because the word isn’t just technical. It carries a story about ethics, and once you hear it, it’s hard to un-hear.
I first clocked the shift in a Manchester boutique when a cult matte red launched a “new vegan formula”. The swatches were almost identical, but not quite. Staff whispered about repeat customers who could spot undertones from across the room. Meanwhile, social searches for “carmine-free lipstick” have crept up, and TikTok explainers of the cochineal process have millions of views. No rage, no boycotts, just a gentle snowball. One indie founder told me their customer emails flipped in tone in a year: fewer “Why did you change this?” and more “Thank you for telling me what you changed.” Change travels that way now — on a quiet tide of values and receipts.
So why the hush? Partly because of performance. Carmine yields a unique red with excellent stability and lip safety, and ditching it risks a shade that leans warmer, browner, or a touch more translucent. There’s also the language tangle: cruelty-free refers to no animal testing, while vegan refers to no animal-derived ingredients. Many shoppers conflate the two, and brands worry that shouting about carmine invites confusion. Then there’s global compliance and cost. Reformulating across markets means reprinting boxes, colour-matching batches, and training staff to explain why a red is 98% the same. Easier to get it right, roll it out, and let your audience feel the difference without the noise.
What to use instead — and how to read the labels
If you want that classic red without carmine, start with the label. Scan for “carmine”, “cochineal extract”, “natural red 4”, “E120”, or “CI 75470”. What replaces it? You’ll often see iron oxides (CI 77491) for earthy reds, and FDA/EU-approved synthetic lakes like CI 15850 (Red 6/7) for a bright, lip-safe cherry. A smart trick: dab a mineral red (iron oxide) liner under a synthetic-lake lipstick. The oxide steadies the warmth; the lake pigment brings the pop. It’s a tiny, backstage move that turns “nearly my red” into “my red”.
Another route is plant-forward pigments blended with techy dispersions. Beetroot and anthocyanin-based reds can look gorgeous in balms and stains, especially where a soft blur suits. They don’t always hit that razor-sharp blue-red, but layered over a neutralising lip base, they read modern and less “done”. If a formula lists “calcium lake” next to a Red number, it’s a clue you’re getting intensity without insects. And if you crave longevity, look for film formers or silicones in the mix, then blot once and reapply a thin veil. Let’s be honest: nobody exfoliates and line-perfects on a Tuesday morning commute.
Common mistake: assuming cruelty-free equals vegan. It doesn’t. A brand can skip animal testing and still use carmine or beeswax. The reverse is true too. Another trap is chasing a perfect dupe of your old carmine-based blue-red and expecting zero shift. Physics gets a say. Undertone is a tightrope, and light in your bathroom isn’t the light at your desk. Try your potential new red in daylight, then snap it under warm indoor bulbs. If you’ve got neutral-to-cool lips, a touch of brown in a carmine-free red can read luxe rather than dull. And if your lips run warm, a hint of pink helps keep it crisp. *Small adjustments beat a drawer of regrets.*
As one London cosmetic formulator told me off the record,
“You can get breathtaking reds without carmine now. The trick is acceptance: it’s not about cloning a molecule’s soul. It’s about designing a colour wardrobe that behaves beautifully on real faces.”
- Spot the tell: carmine, cochineal, CI 75470, E120 = animal-derived red.
- Bright vegan alternatives: CI 15850 (Red 6/7), CI 16035 (Red 40) where permitted for lips.
- Earthy depth: CI 77491 (iron oxide red) for rust, brick, and terracotta vibes.
- Label hack: “vegan” means no animal ingredients; “cruelty-free” refers to testing.
- Application tweak: oxide lip liner + synthetic-lake lipstick = balanced, punchy red.
Where this is heading next
The quiet exit of carmine is part of a bigger pattern. Colour is going biotech, with labs exploring fermentation-derived reds from sugars and microbes, and smarter dispersion systems that keep pigments vivid without leaning plasticky. Retail shelves are also catching up with context-rich labelling. Expect more tiny icons and plain-English notes: vegan, no carmine, lip-safe lakes, mineral blend. There’s room for nuance too. Some shoppers want plant-only; others prioritise performance and are fine with lab-made pigments. Brands are learning to show their working instead of hiding the math. And the palette broadens as a result. A future where your true-blue red, your brick-rose, and your high-sheen cherry all exist without insects isn’t a trend piece. It’s the baseline. The interesting bit is how we’ll talk about it — not with purity tests, but with a better, kinder red that wears like you.
| Key points | Detail | Reader Interest |
|---|---|---|
| Carmine is being phased out | Many cruelty-free brands are removing CI 75470 quietly to align with vegan expectations | Explains subtle shade shifts shoppers are noticing |
| Strong alternatives exist | Iron oxides and synthetic lakes (e.g., CI 15850) can deliver vivid, lip-safe reds | Actionable options without sacrificing colour payoff |
| Label literacy wins | Learn the synonyms for carmine and the codes for non-animal reds | Empowers quick decisions in-store or online |
FAQ :
- What’s the “one ingredient” brands are dropping?Carmine, also listed as cochineal extract, E120, or CI 75470. It’s an animal-derived red pigment traditionally used in lipsticks and blushers.
- Does cruelty-free mean vegan?No. Cruelty-free refers to no animal testing. Vegan means no animal-derived ingredients. A product can be one without being the other.
- Are synthetic reds safe on lips?Approved synthetic lakes (like CI 15850) are widely used and regulated for lip use. Check brand safety notes and regional approvals if you’re buying internationally.
- How do I get a true-blue red without carmine?Look for CI 15850 paired with a touch of CI 77491, or layer a cool-toned oxide liner under a vegan cherry lipstick. That combo keeps brightness and balance.
- Will the new formulas last as long?Wear time depends on the whole formula, not just the pigment. Seek film-formers, blot and reapply thinly, and choose demi-matte textures for the best stay-put finish.
